Fire Table Not Lighting? Common Causes and Fixes

Quick Answer

Most fire table ignition problems trace back to one of four things: a blocked burner port, a weak or misaligned igniter, a propane supply issue, or moisture in the system. Start by checking the burner for debris and confirming the gas valve is fully open. If the table still won't light after two or three attempts, stop and call a qualified technician.

You set the mood, poured the drinks, and pressed the igniter. Nothing. A fire table that won't light is frustrating, but in most cases the fix is straightforward. This guide walks through the most common causes of fire table ignition problems and flame issues, with clear steps to diagnose and correct each one.

Before you start, know this: fire features involve gas and open flame. If you ever smell gas, hear a hiss, or see damaged wiring, stop immediately and call a licensed professional. The steps below cover routine troubleshooting only.

Symptom: No Spark at All

If you press the igniter and hear nothing, the problem is usually electrical. On battery-powered ignition systems, the most common culprit is a dead battery. Replace it with the correct size and try again. On hardwired systems, check that the power supply is connected and the breaker hasn't tripped.

If the battery is fresh and you still get no spark, inspect the igniter electrode. It should be clean and positioned close to the burner port. A corroded or misaligned electrode won't arc properly. Gently clean it with a soft brush and adjust the gap according to your manufacturer's instructions.

• Replace the igniter battery first—it's the cheapest and most common fix.
• Check for loose or corroded wire connections at the igniter module.
• If the electrode is cracked or the ceramic insulator is damaged, stop and order a replacement part.

Symptom: Spark but No Flame

You hear the click, you see the spark, but no flame appears. This points to a gas supply problem. Confirm the propane tank isn't empty and that the manual shutoff valve is fully open. On propane systems, a common issue is the excess-flow safety device tripping after a rapid valve opening. Close the tank valve completely, wait thirty seconds, then open it slowly.

If gas is flowing but the burner still won't light, check for blockages. Spider webs, dust, and debris commonly clog burner ports, especially after a season of storage. Use a soft brush or compressed air to clear the ports. Never use a wire or pin, which can enlarge the openings and affect flame performance.

• Open the propane valve slowly to avoid tripping the excess-flow device.
• Clear burner ports with a soft brush—never a metal tool.
• If you smell gas and the burner won't light, shut everything off and ventilate the area before retrying.

Symptom: Flame Lights Then Goes Out

A fire table that won't stay lit often has a flame-sensing issue. Many modern fire tables use a thermocouple or flame sensor that shuts off gas if it doesn't detect a flame. If the sensor is dirty or misaligned, it may not register the flame and will cut the gas supply after a few seconds.

Clean the flame sensor with a soft cloth and verify it sits in the flame path. If the problem continues, the sensor may need replacement. This is also a common symptom when the gas pressure is too low—check that your regulator is the correct type and that the tank isn't running low.

• Hold the control knob down for 10–15 seconds after ignition to let the thermocouple warm up.
• Clean the flame sensor gently—soot and dust interfere with detection.
• If the flame goes out repeatedly despite cleaning, stop and call a technician.

Symptom: Weak or Uneven Flame

A flame that's smaller than usual or uneven across the burner usually means restricted gas flow or clogged ports. Check the burner ports first, then inspect the gas line for kinks or obstructions. On propane systems, cold weather can reduce tank pressure and cause a weak flame—this is normal and often resolves as the tank warms.

If you've cleared the ports and the flame is still weak, the regulator may be failing. Regulators have a limited lifespan and can degrade over time. Replacement is inexpensive and straightforward on most models, but if you're not comfortable working with gas fittings, hire a professional.

• Clear every burner port—even partial blockages affect flame shape.
• In cold weather, a propane tank may need to warm up for full pressure.
• Replace a suspect regulator before assuming the burner is faulty.

Symptom: Moisture or Weather-Related Issues

After rain or high humidity, fire tables can be difficult to light. Water in the burner or gas line disrupts ignition. If your table has been exposed to weather, dry the burner area thoroughly and try again. A cover is the simplest prevention, but if moisture has entered the gas line, you'll need to purge it—a job best left to a professional.

If your fire table uses fire stones or media, wet media can also hinder ignition. Remove and dry the stones, then replace them once the burner is dry. This is a good time to check for cracked or degraded stones and replace them if needed.

• Dry the burner and media thoroughly after rain before attempting to light.
• Use a fitted cover to prevent moisture ingress between uses.
• If water has entered the gas line, stop and call a technician.

Diagnosis Checklist: When to Fix and When to Stop

• No spark: Replace the igniter battery and clean the electrode. If there's still no spark, the igniter module or wiring may be faulty. If you're not comfortable testing electrical components, stop and call a technician.
• Spark but no flame: Check gas supply, open the valve slowly, and clear burner ports. If you smell gas, stop immediately. If the burner still won't light after clearing ports and confirming gas flow, stop and call a professional.
• Flame lights then goes out: Clean the flame sensor and hold the knob down longer during ignition. If the flame still cuts out, the thermocouple may need replacement. Repeated flame failure after cleaning is a sign to stop and seek service.
• Weak or uneven flame: Clear all burner ports and check for kinks in the gas line. In cold weather, allow the propane tank to warm up. If the flame remains weak after these steps, the regulator may be failing—replace it or call a technician.
• Moisture-related issues: Dry the burner and media thoroughly after rain. Use a cover between uses to prevent water ingress. If water has entered the gas line, do not attempt to purge it yourself—call a professional.

Fire Table Components and Maintenance

• Famosa Fire Table Steel: The standard configuration includes a 3/16" thick fully welded steel frame, a 304 stainless steel burner, burner system, 304 stainless steel pan, key valve controls, oversized stainless leveling feet, a gliding propane tank drawer, and a fire pit. Stainless steel burners and pans resist corrosion better than mild steel, which means fewer clogs and a longer service life. The accessible propane drawer also makes tank checks and replacements easier during troubleshooting.
• Ivory-Tan Fire Stones: These earth-tone matte fire stones are heat resistant, come in 1–2", 2–3", and 3–4" sizes, and are packaged in a 20 lb bag that covers 1 sq. ft. at 2" deep. They are suitable for gas, propane, or ethanol, indoor and outdoor fireplaces. Using the correct media depth and size helps flame spread evenly and prevents blocked burner ports. Wet or degraded stones can interfere with ignition, so inspect and replace them when they show wear.

Most fire table ignition problems have simple fixes: a fresh battery, a cleared burner port, or a slowly opened gas valve. Work through the diagnosis checklist methodically, and know when to stop. If you ever smell gas, see damaged components, or can't resolve the issue after basic troubleshooting, call a licensed technician. Your fire table is meant to be enjoyed—not wrestled with.